CL Eleven (Gull) "Ingrid"

Reinforcement was added in the following locations lower pintle is secured foredeck where the chainplate attaches centreboard pivot bolt jib sheet hardware trunk/thwart joint mast step and bow section   Jib sheet hardware and trunk/thwart joint. The thwart received new marine plywood pads for the jib sheet hardware, and also reinforcement adjacent to the centreboard trunk, which this was glued to thwart with a blob of putty.   These areas will be tabbed together with 1708. Mast step and adjacent area This required a shim at the mast itself. Taped and waxed. Laminated in place, cured, then trimmed. Also, the joint tabbing the shelf piece to the hull had failed, so both sides were re-bonded then further reinforced.      

 Was asked to share this with a fellow owner, and have posted here.

 Poor Ingrid - she had been resting on logs, inverted,  under a tarp for years.  Unfortunately her foredeck was not meant to bear this load and over time it got squashed.   Bugged me to look at it, so..... You can see the flat spot. The deck camber was templated. A laminated oak beam was made. The hull was inverted and prepped, you can see the extent to which the camber was lost. Finesse....   A crowbar and bungee cord to force the deck to the beam's camber and secure it while the epoxy cures. Once cured, a piece of 1708 was laminated over top,   This is now the strongest part of the boat! Decided to use the leftover adhesive and scrap fiberglass to make a backing plate for the bow, forward of the oak beam to reinforce the area where the forestay chainplate attaches.   The original was plywood and had rotted to nothing. This was bevelled along its edges and secured with glass-filled epoxy putty.  A layer of 1708 was laminated on top (with the boat inverted).  The 1708 spans the for

 HDPE AKA Starboard, this is useful stuff and very easy to work.  It was used to replace various wooden parts that had rotted.  It can be worked with woodworking tools more easily than can wood in some respects. Mast Step:  Original imperfections duplicated.

Rudder, ready to go.   glassed, epoxied, painted varnished, and all lines and shock cord renewed. Projects piling up...  The rudder was in excellent shape needing very little, however I elected to sand off the crazed paint, and glass and saturate it’s blade with epoxy, duplicating most of the needless overkill of the centreboard.  The lines will be replaced and the tiller varnished.

 Under Construction Mandatory safety equipment (Transport Canada, Non-powered vessel) An appropriately sized, Canadian-approved personal flotation device (  PFD  ) or lifejacket, for each person on board;   A buoyant heaving line (15 metres in length); Manual propelling device or anchor with at least 15 metres of rope, cable or chain;   Bailer or hand pump; Sound-signalling device; Navigation lights if the craft is used between sunset and sunrise or during periods of reduced visibility, i.e. mist and rain. Finishing Details Where do lines get coiled (main halyard, dock lines.) Does the boat need fenders or could a pool noodle be used? how will oars fit in the boat? can a windshield washer fluid jug bailer be accommodated under the stern thwart? is a foredeck cleat or u-bolt needed for any reason? Can the under-foredeck area be configured to stow rudder, sails, and mandatory safety equipment?   Can a pair of aft-facing transom u-bolts (to secure the boat in transit) be installed with ri

Update: I’ve decided I’ll keep it simple, and use expanded poly styrene foam sheet for flotation.   This is the sheet pink stuff used for building insulation.   Installation will mimic the original, except the foam will be secured with expanding foam, the parts will be neatly fitted, and - I think - there will be greater cubic volume. I decided not to encapsulate the  foam as this simply adds weight, and makes future repairs difficult. (It’s also a lot of work.).   As it is installed on the underside of the decking, it is somewhat protected from damage.  The first strategy will be to install as much foam as possible, secured in place on the underside of any decking. We will test the boat the spring and see if it’s sinks! How much Flotation? Here is an interesting article on how to calculate the buoyancy required.   https://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-7/wl55-flotation.html I will likely replace the foam with a mixture of sheet styrene from home depot, and poured-in place urethane

Sailmakers, I am looking for price and delivery on the following: Cl-11/Gull Dinghy    (Ian Proctor design)   1    Mainsail luff 14'8", foot 6.9"   please specify roach/battens one row reef points at approximately 28" from tack, rising to 31" at clew,  cunningham cringle. Loose footed 2      Jib  8' 6.5", 7' 4.5", 4'2"  See photos for luff attachment as built  3 plastic hanks. Can a larger jib be made and still utilize the sheet leads? 3      Spinnaker    10'2" luffs, 11' foot.  or nearest stock size if it exists, Miscellaneous information: Measured dimensions of existing sails, grommet to grommet are: Main:   14'6", 16'2", 6'9"    No reef points, rope foot and luff, three battens) Jib:  8' 6.5", 7' 4.5", 4'2"  See photos for luff attachment as built  3 plastic hanks. Spinnaker   10'2" luffs, 11' foot.  or nearest stock size if it exists, See photos below f

DONE Many thanks to the kind members of the UK Gull facebook group for their encouragement and for providing the missing details required to replicate Ingrid's centreboard.  Compost Some photos of Ingrid's centreboard as received.   A large section was missing and what was left was crumbling. This hole is bored though the trailing edge of the centreboard, it received a locking pin which secured the board in the retracted position for trailering or beaching.   Photos of a UK-based Gull centreboard, detailing the missing section.  (Thanks Simon!) The photo and discussion also explained the mysterious bit of hardware in a box of stuff included with the boat.  This is an adjustable friction brake that fits in the slot at the top of the board.   It compresses 1” od rubber heater hose enough to span the centreboard case, resisting the board's swing.  Trial fit and hole marking. As with the pivot bolt reinforcements in the trunk, I decided to make a bearing in the board itself, to