CL Eleven (Gull) "Ingrid"

Have been pondering the mainsheet setup, staring at my collection of hardware, trying to make use of what I already have.  I had a boat once with a main sheet that was rigged as a bridle  with one part of the purchase on each transom corner and of course a block on the end of the boom.  It cleated on one of the transom corners. I believe this was how Ingrid was originally rigged.   It was cheap to but a nuisance and I was very happy co convert it to a mid-boom system with a block and cleat in the cockpit.  It did miss the traveler though.   I’ve seen CL 11s with the main sheet block located in the Centre of the thwart - there's no other appropriate place to mount a block - all fine unless you aspire to go rowing one day.  (Not sure I’ll ever go that far but I don’t want to preclude it)  What’s missing is a solid location to mount the block, that doesn’t spoil the thwart for sitting/rowing.   Nonetheless, I believe I will rig Ingrid with a block and cleat in the cockpit and a rope t

Reinforcement was added in the following locations lower pintle is secured foredeck where the chainplate attaches centreboard pivot bolt jib sheet hardware trunk/thwart joint mast step and bow section   Jib sheet hardware and trunk/thwart joint. The thwart received new marine plywood pads for the jib sheet hardware, and also reinforcement adjacent to the centreboard trunk, which this was glued to thwart with a blob of putty.   These areas will be tabbed together with 1708. Mast step and adjacent area This required a shim at the mast itself. Taped and waxed. Laminated in place, cured, then trimmed. Also, the joint tabbing the shelf piece to the hull had failed, so both sides were re-bonded then further reinforced.      

 Was asked to share this with a fellow owner, and have posted here.

 Poor Ingrid - she had been resting on logs, inverted,  under a tarp for years.  Unfortunately her foredeck was not meant to bear this load and over time it got squashed.   Bugged me to look at it, so..... You can see the flat spot. The deck camber was templated. A laminated oak beam was made. The hull was inverted and prepped, you can see the extent to which the camber was lost. Finesse....   A crowbar and bungee cord to force the deck to the beam's camber and secure it while the epoxy cures. Once cured, a piece of 1708 was laminated over top,   This is now the strongest part of the boat! Decided to use the leftover adhesive and scrap fiberglass to make a backing plate for the bow, forward of the oak beam to reinforce the area where the forestay chainplate attaches.   The original was plywood and had rotted to nothing. This was bevelled along its edges and secured with glass-filled epoxy putty.  A layer of 1708 was laminated on top (with the boat inverted).  The 1708 spans the for

 HDPE AKA Starboard, this is useful stuff and very easy to work.  It was used to replace various wooden parts that had rotted.  It can be worked with woodworking tools more easily than can wood in some respects. Mast Step:  Original imperfections duplicated.

Rudder, ready to go.   glassed, epoxied, painted varnished, and all lines and shock cord renewed. Projects piling up...  The rudder was in excellent shape needing very little, however I elected to sand off the crazed paint, and glass and saturate it’s blade with epoxy, duplicating most of the needless overkill of the centreboard.  The lines will be replaced and the tiller varnished.