Stem and Transom fittings

Ingrid had very few places to which to tie anything, and I noted as I scanned the internet that later boats and gulls had added some fittings for this purpose. I added some stout fittings adequate to secure the boat to both dock and trailer.

The transom was straightforward however the stem required the installation of a fitted oak reinforcement , well bedded in glass-filled epoxy putty and then reinforced with two layers of 1708, making a solid stem post integrated with the fiberglass topsides.

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Ingrid's Squashed nose.

Poor Ingrid - she had been resting on logs, inverted, under a tarp for years. Unfortunately her foredeck was not meant to bear this load and over time it got squashed. Bugged me to look at it, so..... You can see the flat spot. The deck camber was templated. A laminated oak beam was made. The hull was inverted and prepped, you can see the extent to which the camber was lost. Finesse.... A crowbar and bungee cord to force the deck to the beam's camber and secure it while the epoxy cures. Once cured, a piece of 1708 was laminated over top, This is now the strongest part of the boat! Decided to use the leftover adhesive and scrap fiberglass to make a backing plate for the bow, forward of the oak beam to reinforce the area where the forestay chainplate attaches. The original was plywood and had rotted to nothing. This was bevelled along its edges and secured with glass-filled epoxy putty. A layer of 1708 was laminated o...

She's in the workshop - summary of work required

So, with Ingrid cleaned and stripped to bare fiberglass, the work plan is basically as follows: Determine any changes to the running rigging and acquire the parts. Reinforce/prepare installation points as required. Counterbore and install fiberglass bushing for the centreboard trunk. (this ended up being more involved than that) Reinforce the stem for a towing u-bolt, the foredeck where the forestay chainplate attaches, and the foredeck where a u-bolt (for tying to a dock) might attach. Consider a deck beam to restore the deck camber forward. (it's squashed flat) Install a towing/tiedown eye on the stem, and two on the transom in lieu of docking cleats. Make any required parts. Install oarlocks and/or an outboard mounting pad Deal with cosmetics Ingrid arrived with the rudder and tiller assembly in good shape, both sails, standing rigging intact, boom and gooseneck present, mast with alloy halyard cleats intact. Hull and deck 'Glass Work Repair centreboard ...

Flotation/buoyancy

Update: I’ve decided I’ll keep it simple, and use expanded poly styrene foam sheet for flotation. This is the sheet pink stuff used for building insulation. Installation will mimic the original, except the foam will be secured with expanding foam, the parts will be neatly fitted, and - I think - there will be greater cubic volume. I decided not to encapsulate the foam as this simply adds weight, and makes future repairs difficult. (It’s also a lot of work.). As it is installed on the underside of the decking, it is somewhat protected from damage. The first strategy will be to install as much foam as possible, secured in place on the underside of any decking. We will test the boat the spring and see if it’s sinks! How much Flotation? Here is an interesting article on how to calculate the buoyancy required. https://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-7/wl55-flotation.html I will likely replace the foam with a mixture of sheet styrene from home d...

CL Eleven (Gull) "Ingrid"

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